Unstaffed hut · 3 562 m · Macugnaga
The Schwarzberg-Weisstor (Città di Luino) bivouac hut is an unguarded cabin located in Macugnaga, in the Piedmont region. It is managed by a public entity.
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From Passo(col)di Monte Moro, the route runs westwards, mostly on the northern flank of the border ridge and involves crossing glaciers at an altitude above 3000 m, parallel to the direction of crevasse openings. Rope and caution are mandatory! Crossing the Eastern (3478 m) and Western (3562 m) peaks of Roffel, always ascending slightly and regularly diagonally, the slopes become steeper towards the north. After passing a rocky spur descending from the Western peak, you must gradually approach the border ridge (rimaye) to reach a col (3517 m) from where you follow the ridge itself to find the shelter nestled among the rocks on the left (S) flank, about 80 m from the Schwarzhorn summit. The route is technically modest (PD) but long (about 7 km, allow 5h30/6h) and may involve significant detours depending on crevasses. From [->2597], the access is much shorter (2h30/3h) but involves rock climbing on the sides and spurs flanking the Roffel glacier to the west (passages of II+/III+, AD), leading to a small shoulder northeast of the lowest depression of the Nuovo (Neue) Weisstor pass. From there, you bypass the border ridge on its western flank (crevasses) to reach the Schwarzhorn summit via snowfields, then descend the eastern ridge where the shelter is located.
Small metal construction, painted yellow and blue. No water nearby, except in the form of snow. Mattress + blankets. Gas stove (but beware, they tend to be removed). Acceptable insulation (altitude...)
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