Unstaffed hut · 3 200 m · Bionaz
Unguarded hut run by the Club Alpino Accademico Italiano, located in the municipality of Bionaz, in the Aosta Valley. It is accessible during the summer season.
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From the Place Moulin dam, head towards the [->2395] and pass it towards the [->2347]. I then provide general indications that will need to be supplemented on site, as I have not climbed this route myself. After crossing the stream descending from the southern part of the Grandes Murailles glacier but before reaching a large cairn (around 2250 m), look above the scree on the left bank for a series of rocky bars cut by terraces (just before the northern tongue of the glacier). A couloir cuts through these bars, with a base of grass and scree that must be taken. At the top, it bends to the right and winds through bars and terraces. It seems that today only a few yellow paint marks and some cairns mark this route...The couloir is sometimes extremely steep, and negotiating chokepoints and small ledges requires actual climbing moves. Humidity and verglas will be aggravating factors. The route is estimated to be PD in good conditions. From Place Moulin, allow approximately 7 hours.
Located on a rocky terrace, just southwest of the promontory named Tête des Roèses (3207 m). Among the "stock of troubles," the Tête des Roèses bivouac hut holds a place of honor... Before 1994, there was a standard half-barrel structure (3 places!), which was replaced by a much larger and more comfortable building. No heating, obviously, as water is in the form of snow/ice. Photos on this page.
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